Wednesday, June 16, 2010

The kung pao konjecture

A recent trip to the far east made me ponder a few things -
Despite different experiences in various Chinatowns, I came to a quick realization that a large cross-section of Chinese food in the US is quite a travesty. One of the best revelations was the diversity of options and the lack of reliance on fried food. For example, if I Wiki-ed earlier, I would perhaps have been better informed - "US Chinese food typically treats vegetables as garnish while cuisines of China emphasize vegetables". I guess we were lucky to have hosts who knew what to order but the plethora of choices: Eggplant, carrots, onions, bok choy, cabbages, all kinds of mushrooms, tomatoes that didnt taste like cardboard, terrific use of garlic and ginger, seaweed, tofu were either served as standalone dishes or supplemented fresh meats and fish in some of the best dining I've had. The difference was the lack of "spices" of the conventional kind, but the skillful melding of different ingredients to create hot yet delicate food (poof !! the myth of the bland Chinese food). The best part, was the communal approach to food with a good time spent over talking and eating and sharing dishes.
The other was the obvious fact that a lot of people who warned me of difficult and tasteless food were totally off. I realize the irony of writing this on a food blog, but opinions only go so far !!
Specialties like Xiao bao long (delectable dumplings that literally burst with flavor in your mouth) and hot pot were new additions to my culinary dictionary.

So when my Chinese student informed me that the new MaMa Wok out in the Broad Street strip mall wilderness was a good visit, I immediately jumped at the chance to test this conjecture. We were told that the food at MW is apparently closer to Taiwanese cuisine (the majority of Chinese places are variations of Cantonese or Szechuan). A pretty exhaustive menu and while it contains the usual suspects of American Chinese cuisine - General Tso's, Kung Pao's and Orange chicken et al, we felt it was time to move beyond this paradigm.
Getting some of their specialties turned out to be excellent choices. In particular, a beef dish with vegetables came simmering to the table in a hot pot and continued cooking at the table for around 5 mins. Hints of ginger supplemented the vegetables (primarily bok) and the meat. I had to try their hot and sour soup which was also great. I kind of craved the spiciness of Shanghainese cooking but these were lightly spiced and importantly not smothered in that greasy, saucy stereotypical mode found in so many places around. A long drive away, but my initial impression was that MW is a great addition to (formerly lacking) good Chinese options around.

There are a variety of sushi options too but I think I'll stick to the Chinese food for now and particularly, keep away from the food tailored to suit "western palates".

A dinner for two is around $30+ (w/ t&t) but note: The portion sizes at MW are huge. A single entree is definitely enough for two people and two entrees, supplemented by some rice makes for 2 good meals. Service was fine.

MaMa Wok at 7801 Broad Street.

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