I'm hardly, if ever, ahead of any sort of curve. So it was actually quite surprising to stumble on a place that's brand new in Richmond. Ambling aimlessly in Carytown recently, in search of a place to eat, we were arrested by a large portrait framed in a brightly lit doorway and a clamor from up above. Spying a reproduction of "Portrait of Mrs. Allan Bott" by one of my favorite Art Deco artists Tamara de Lempicka, my curiousity was piqued. On closer look, we saw that it was a new restaurant - Xtras !
Xtras is located right next to the bangle and bead shop in C-town. Walking up the stairs to the high aspect ratio interior, we observed that the noises were coming from the outdoor balcony that overlooks Cary street. Sadly the balcony was full, so we had to settle for being seated indoors. At first glance, it is a bit hard to figure out exactly which vibe they are going for - the sports bar, the bistro or the lounge or all of the above.
The dinner was pretty good, if unremarkable (a full review will have to wait, if ever). They feature a menu that doesnt stray very far from the norm - sandwiches (I had an arctic char on ciabatta with avocado and sprouts and a nicely potent aioli sauce) salads and a handful of other entrees. Prices are around $5-$15/entree. Xtras was surprisingly full for a place that had apparently been open for all of 4 days. $5 cosmo specials (that day), a handful of beers and a wine list of around 10 wines by the glass made for a host of beverage choices. We tried each of their desserts - a caramel apple creme brulee, a bread pudding and cheesecake, all of which were surprisingly good and it was a good feeling that no one felt stuffed or bloated in the aftermath....
I suspect the owners (the eponymous Xtra Moore - a fascinating name !) will be filling up the walls pretty soon. If Lempicka is a "true" inspiration, I hope the results are interesting. I suspect that balcony will be seeing some patronage, given its location. Good luck ahead !
While in the neighborhood, several visits in to Secco starting from their initial weekends to their somewhat mature business now, I have yet to make up my mind about what to actually think of the place. I quite like the idea of a casual wine bar. Secco fits the bill in almost every respect - a very good selection of decently priced wines by the glass and a nice warm interior with those tungsten lightbulbs that are all the rage these days (an nyt article on the same).
I guess its the dining categorization and (perhaps to some extent) the crowd (in both senses of the word) that has me stumped. And the food has left me wanting on many an occasion, quite literally. Their "small plates" are actually quite small and more along the lines of mini-tapas perhaps - often pretty but hardly substantial...ranging from the exotic sounding but quite insipid harissa octopus to a well put together charcuterie plate (one the better ones for some radius around). ranging from $5 for 1 to $21 for 5 for cheeses and meats, Secco is actually not an inexpensive proposition. However, in times when double digit drinks appear to becoming the norm, they have a very large list of wines for around $5-$10...if one is looking for a wine and cheese detour alone, I would be hard pressed to recommend an alternative.
The staff is a mixed bag - ranging from the overly effusive to the oddly taciturn to the mathematically challenged to the ever so well informed one who turned us on to Midnight moon (one could do a short paean in the glory of this cheese)! And given that it is such a small space - the couirky bar (surprisingly unstained after all these months) seats around 10 and there are 4 tables and a couple of couches - it gets pretty packed often, especially weekend nights. Oddly enough this may be part of the allure, as opposed to say Cafe Caturra, which operates in the same genre.
Another intriguing store front that has been in development for some time now is the Belmont Food shop in that section of Belmont between Ellwood and Floyd that has been seeing increased traffic in the wake of Stuzzi. They have a menu posted ($15 for a boxed lunch !!) and a website but no semblance of a kitchen or seating or anything. West of the Blvd mentioned them last month but in the interim - the mystery !!
I'll just file this under this category since I've been thinking about it: Kudos to Sprout for their recent favorable rave in Style and of course I've been a fan for some time. However (oops !) a few lunches into the semester, a general consensus (sample = subjects with varying appetite sizes) has emerged that is giving us pause re: future lunch patronage. I'm hardly a fan of the typical Texas-sized portions around or of the mindless caloric consumption at fast food places but I have to say that feeling a stomach growl a mere hour post-a $15 lunch is a bit troublesome. One wonders if the Sisyphean task of research and education expands ones appetite inordinately.
Speaking of char, I wonder how long it will be before we see the GMO salmon in menus around ! I for one, while being quite fascinated by genetic engineering and the technicalities thereof, shudder at the prospect...
Post-op: clarification – I am not comparing Secco to Café Caturra. In all my ignorance, I wouldn’t venture to make that egregious of a comparison. Both share a structural homology and it may be instructive to think about the multi-factor dynamics thereof (?).
Separately, I've borne the pearls-before-swine argument before but that's perhaps, better addressed over a glass of Château Lafite Rothschild Cabernet and not blogged about :).
Sunday, September 26, 2010
carytown musings
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9 comments:
I love Secco!
I can't count the number of people who've told me that they were either disappointed with the portion size of plates at Secco (and less so, Sprout), or unhappy to be paying so much when trying to put together a full meal. But all the while, loving the flavors, options and concept behind each of those places. However, this is one of the first places I've seen anyone record their impressions publicly (instead of depositing their complaints with me).
Although those two places are very different, they're both able to make their case for higher priced food pretty easily. I generally enjoy this blogger's writing and his unexpected angles on food issues. But, when I forwarded out the post on Twitter, there was an immediate backlash. I'm not a regular at either place (but I've had good food at both), so I'm mostly interested in how actual customers see these issues. The author isn't on Twitter, as far as I know. So, maybe the debate can relocate here.
Some discussion prompts:
-Does quality overrule quantity?
-What constitutes a meal, and are restaurants obligated to provide enough food to fill you up?
-Can small plates too small?
-Shouldn't diners adjust expectations before eating at a locavore or epicurean eatery?
-If a place is offering a truly unique and sought-after products, shouldn't we expect to pay more?
Isn't one blog enough Jason?
Loose Lips:
You're right. It's pretty obvious in my too-long comment that I already had some of these topics on my mind, but my mind isn't really made up. So, I figured this blog should take it up, since this post stirred up the Twittersphere after I forwarded it.
It was supposed to say "can small plates be too small?"
Why is this an either/or issue? Sometimes I like a big, fat burrito and sometimes I'm in the mood for something more refined.
If a restaurant is running a 10% food cost and ripping people off, then they should be called out. But if they provide a good value (be it fine dining or food from a truck) then what's the problem? I wouldn't go to a small plates restaurant expecting a cheap, hearty meal just like I wouldn't fault Five Guys for lacking an interesting wine list or knowledgeable service.
Everyone is entitled to their likes and dislikes but it is misguided to judge all restaurants by a single standard and kind of pointless (though maybe slightly entertaining) to create manifestos on what a dining experience "should be".
Thank you for your comments.
RVAfoodie/Jason, valuable inputs and very valid points. No simple answers and lots of shades of gray.
Matt, I doubt anyone would use a single-size-fits-all standard and I certainly dont presume to say what a place "should" be like. This was just an observation at each place.
I've been waiting all day to read this string and post my comment. I'm glad I've had some time to let it ferment. I logged the point earlier with RVAfoodie via twitter that I find the RVA need for two appetizers, three sides by a piece of protein that could feed a small nation, bread, crackers and a round of desserts is, basically grotesque. I won't back down from that sentiment but I definitely agree with Matt's point, sometimes a person just wants a big honkin burrito and damnit, we should be able to find one. That would be the purpose for Chipotle right? That, of course, is all a digression. Topic at hand? Secco, Caturra, value for the buck? Secco is probably the most original thing to hit Richmond in a long time; not because they're pushing some amazing new concept, but because they're doing what they do with no apologies. Look to Secco's beginings, a wine store. What is the best thing to do at Secco? Drink wine. The value in the glass for the wine served at Secco is second to none in Richmond. The food is a compliment to the juice, not the other way around. Think about it: if you went to Secco for a full meal no one would ever be able to get a table. Its a tiny place. The idea is to have wine, eat some creative amuse bouches, chatter with friends, chatter with the staff and be on your way to the next watering hole. They're doing a damn fine job. As for Caturra, think of it as entry-level luxury. It is your BMW 325i with alloy wheels and the base cloth interior package. The VW Passat is a much better car but it doesn't say BMW on the hood. At Caturra you will get full, for sure, of cold-cuts and provolone grilled on some decent bread with potato chips on the side. Don't get me wrong, its damn tasty but no one is reinventing the wheel there and thats ok. As for wine, you really have to fork out the cash to get the good stuff (unlike Secco). The affordable BTG selections at Caturra are not usually spectacular but the temperature is usually right, the cuvee keeps it fresh and at least the selection is large. Goal #1 in Caturra? Be seen. Lets face it, people look better in Caturra, even while eating a tuna salad sandwich coming in at $9.00.
I am very sorry for posting my comment nine times. The website was doing something wonky, please feel free to delete anything you like.
mr. Robertson, you wont find any disagreement from me on most of what you said (any of the three times you did :)) and thank you for your insight into the CC mindset.
I clarify again - I am/was not comparing Secco and CC. I find mindless caloric consumption quite distasteful (pun intended). However, the point in one case was this - what is the point of spending x on a lunch (however much you agree with everything they're doing), if you're so hungry and seeking an alternative in less than an hour? and this has been a repeat observation...
In the other case, it was merely an observation about the general vibe of the place. I did stress that I would be hard pressed to find an alternative to do precisely what you say - enjoy wine/cheese and I have on many an occasion.
I am against irrational price rants and dont have simple answers to what Jason/RVAfoodie has posed (btw, quality and price are not mutually exclusive). However, just as with appetites - a meal to some may be an amuse bouche to others, I've always written that purchasing power is equally relevant. What one might find reasonable, might be expensive to another. for example, one such (unnamed) place around to see and be seen these days has drinks that run close to $12 each, or more. from the looks of it, lots of people seem fine with it. I dont think its reprehensible to point out that this exercise may not be inexpensive (to me).
I will however add that I'm wary of getting carried away in the self-indulgent belief in the inherent "novelties" of concepts or our own infallibility.
Suum cuique placet.
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