Despite being generally skeptical of the new kid on the block rave syndrome endemic in RVA, experiences at one of the latest entrants into the local dining firmament - The Roosevelt in Church Hill make me abandon circumspection at this musing.
This is a restaurant after my heart in many ways. A casual, spacious room that has seen a lot of time passages (some nicely adorning the walls) and right off the bat, our server reciting the prices on the specials, had me pleased. They did the “simple” perfectly (glazed baby carrots in ginger and OJ sauce, and a delicious crostini with ricotta and beets so good, we had to have a second). After some recently disappointing kolokithokeftedes at a place that shall not be named (cf. syndrome above), the black-eyed pea variety at TR was a reminder on how fritters are really done. AND they delivered nicely on the “complex” - a melding of flavors on the entrees, all largely southern inspired, a lot of VA represented all over. Further, I was generally impressed by the lack of pretension at this restaurant, admonitions at “drink slinging” notwithstanding. One can only hope that the freshness of a rotating, seasonal menu and a hitting of the maturity groove keeps making this place better.
We left the TR the best way I like to leave – the mind full and a stomach full to just the right degree (and a wallet not empty either - several sides, snacks and dessert (the oft raved about panna cotta in the mason jars is all that), can be had for $4-$5, entrees topping out <$20).

If I have one “quasi-complaint” about the Roosevelt, it has to be on the difficulty of getting a table !:) 30-45 min waits have led to disappointment twice ! Be prepared as the word spreads.

tomatime !! eleventy111 !! 1111 !!!

Imperfections and all (taste) before they're gone ! Thanks SOTJ...

A fascinating read on the topic:
Tomatoland: How Modern Industrial Agriculture Destroyed Our Most Alluring Fruit
By Barry Estabrook
Hardcover, 240 pages